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BUYING GUIDE

How to Choose a Keyless Door Lock

The lock that fits your existing deadbolt prep and matches how you already connect smart home devices, whether that is Wi-Fi, Z-Wave through a hub, or Apple Home Key, will serve you better than any lock chosen for app features alone. The variable buyers most often skip is connectivity dependency: whether remote unlock, activity logs, and guest codes work standalone or require a hub, bridge, or paid subscription.

Before You Start

Measure your door thickness (most US exterior doors run 1-3/8 to 1-3/4 inches) and the backset from the door edge to the center of the existing bore, typically 2-3/8 or 2-3/4 inches, since these determine which locks will physically install without new drilling. Note the brand of your current deadbolt, because retrofit locks like the August Wi-Fi Smart Lock mount over an existing cylinder and keep your current exterior key, while full-replacement locks like the Schlage Encode Plus or Kwikset Halo Touch swap the entire unit. Also confirm whether your door has a single-cylinder deadbolt (thumb turn inside, key outside) or a double-cylinder deadbolt, since that affects which replacement locks are even legal to install on an exit door.

Step-by-Step Method

  1. Measure door thickness, backset, and the diameter of the existing cross bore hole before shortlisting any model.
  2. Decide if you want a full deadbolt replacement or a retrofit that keeps your current exterior cylinder and key.
  3. Pick a connectivity type: Bluetooth only, built-in Wi-Fi, Z-Wave or Zigbee through a hub such as SmartThings, or Matter over Thread.
  4. Match connectivity to what you already own, since a Z-Wave lock like the Yale Assure Lock 2 needs a Z-Wave hub or Wi-Fi/Matter module purchased separately for app control.
  5. Confirm the backup entry methods offered: physical key override, keypad code, or fingerprint, and rule out any lock with no mechanical override.
  6. Check the battery type and low-battery warning behavior, since most keypad locks run on four AA batteries with weeks of advance low-battery alerts.
  7. Review whether remote access, guest codes, or activity history require a monthly subscription versus being included with the lock.
  8. Shortlist at least three models that pass steps 1 through 7, then compare owner feedback on install fit and battery reliability before buying.

The Mistakes That Cause Most Problems

Important: Do not install a double-cylinder (keyed on both sides) smart lock on a bedroom or primary exit door, since many US building and fire codes require that door hardware open from the inside without a key during an emergency.

How to Know the Job Is Going Correctly

You know the lock fits when the door thickness and backset match the manufacturer's published range before you order, not after the box arrives. A good sign during comparison is finding at least one backup entry method (key, code, or fingerprint) that works even if the batteries or Wi-Fi are down, and confirming remote features work without a recurring fee you did not plan for.

After the Job

Once installed, cycle the deadbolt manually with the door open first to confirm the bolt throws smoothly before relying on the motor. Set at least one backup keypad code and, if the lock retains a mechanical key, cut and test a spare before you need it in an emergency, then confirm the low-battery notification actually reaches your phone by checking the app settings.

FAQs

How many models should I actually compare before buying?

Three is usually enough once you have filtered by door fit and connectivity type, since most remaining differences come down to backup entry method, app subscription cost, and finish options.

Are Amazon owner reviews useful for this decision?

They are useful for real-world complaints about install fit, keypad responsiveness in cold weather, and battery life, but they cannot tell you whether a lock will fit your specific door prep, so measure first and use reviews to confirm reliability.

Do I need a separate hub for a Z-Wave or Zigbee smart lock?

Yes, locks like the Yale Assure Lock 2 in its Z-Wave configuration need a compatible hub such as SmartThings or a Z-Wave controller to get remote access and automation, since the lock itself only handles local, short-range communication.

Can I keep using my existing house key with a smart lock?

Yes, if you choose a retrofit lock such as the August Wi-Fi Smart Lock that mounts over your existing deadbolt cylinder, or a full-replacement lock with a standard rekeyable cylinder like Kwikset SmartKey, your current keys or a simple rekey will keep working.

Does Matter support mean I no longer need a hub?

Not always. Matter locks still typically communicate over Thread, which usually needs a Thread border router, often built into a smart speaker or hub you already own, so check your existing devices before assuming hub-free operation.

What actually happens when the batteries die?

Most keypad deadbolts give low-battery alerts through the app or a flashing light for one to two weeks before shutdown, and many models include external contact points on the keypad where a 9-volt battery can supply temporary power to unlock with your code or key.

Final Check

Confirm your door's thickness, backset, and cylinder type against the manufacturer specs before ordering, then verify the lock's connectivity matches a hub or app ecosystem you already run. If a model passes both checks and keeps a working mechanical backup, it is a safe purchase regardless of which extra app features it advertises.

Written and fact-checked by the ToolBuyerHub Editorial Team using the verification method in our Editorial Policy.

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