How to Drill Into Concrete Walls Without Cracking Them
Quick answer
To drill into concrete, fit a carbide-tipped masonry bit into a hammer drill or an SDS drill, mark your spot, and start slowly to make a small pilot dent. Then let the hammer action do the work at a steady speed, pulling the bit out every few seconds to clear the dust. A normal cordless drill can manage a few shallow holes in soft concrete, but for anything harder or deeper you really want hammer action.
Concrete looks intimidating to drill, but the job is easy once you have the right tool and the right technique. Most cracked walls, snapped bits, and holes that go nowhere come down to two mistakes: using a plain drill with no hammer action, or forcing the bit instead of letting the tool work. This guide walks you through both so your very first hole comes out clean.
Can you drill into concrete with a normal drill?
For one or two small holes in older, softer concrete, a decent cordless drill built for concrete can just about cope with a good masonry bit and a lot of patience. But concrete is not consistent. The moment you hit a hard patch of aggregate or cured modern concrete, a plain rotary drill will spin, overheat, and get you nowhere. That is where hammer action changes everything. A combi drill with a hammer setting adds thousands of tiny forward blows per minute, so the bit chips its way in rather than trying to grind. For frequent or deep holes, an SDS or hammer drill steps it up again with far more punch.
What you need before you start
- A hammer drill or SDS drill. The single most important choice. See our picks for masonry drilling if you are still deciding.
- Carbide-tipped masonry bits in the size your fixing needs. Ordinary wood or metal bits will blunt instantly on concrete. A good masonry bit set covers most jobs.
- Wall plugs or anchors rated for your load. Match the plug to the bit size so the fit is snug. Our wall anchor guide explains which type suits brick, block, or solid concrete.
- Safety glasses and a dust mask. Concrete dust is sharp and you do not want it in your eyes or lungs.
- A pencil, tape measure, and painter's tape for marking and depth control.
Step by step
- Mark the exact spot. Measure twice and mark with a pencil. If you are hanging something with two fixings, use a spirit level so the holes line up.
- Set your depth. Wrap a strip of painter's tape around the bit so its edge sits at the depth you need. Stop drilling when the tape reaches the wall. This stops you going too deep or too shallow for the plug.
- Make a pilot dent. With the drill in normal rotary mode and low speed, gently tap the trigger to score a small starter dent. This keeps the bit from wandering when you switch to hammer.
- Switch to hammer mode and drill. Hold the drill level and square to the wall, both hands on it, and apply firm steady pressure. Let the hammer action chip the hole. Do not lean your whole body into it.
- Peck and clear the dust. Every few seconds, pull the bit most of the way out while it is still spinning to clear the powder. A clogged hole is the number one reason a bit stalls or overheats.
- Ease off at full depth. When the tape reaches the wall, stop. Blow or vacuum the dust out of the hole so your plug seats fully.
- Insert the plug and fix. Tap the wall plug in flush, then drive your screw. It should feel tight without spinning.
Pro tips that make it easy
If the bit suddenly stops biting, you have likely hit aggregate stone or steel rebar. Do not force it. Move your hole 25 to 50mm to one side and try again. Keep the drill speed moderate rather than flat out, because heat blunts carbide fast. And if you are drilling near the edge of a slab or a corner, go gently, since that is exactly where concrete is most likely to crack.
Which drill do you actually need?
Match the tool to how often you drill masonry:
- Occasional DIY, softer walls: a strong cordless drill rated for concrete with hammer mode is enough.
- Regular home projects: a proper combi drill gives you drilling, hammer, and screwdriving in one body, which is the best all-round buy for most people.
- Heavy or frequent work, thick slabs: an SDS or dedicated hammer drill will save you time and arm ache, and it eats through concrete the others struggle with.
FAQs
Do I really need a hammer drill for concrete?
For soft or old concrete and just a couple of holes, a normal drill with a masonry bit can work. For modern, cured, or thick concrete, hammer action is close to essential. Without it you will burn out bits and struggle to make progress.
What drill bit do I use for concrete?
A carbide-tipped masonry bit. The tip is a small triangular slug of tungsten carbide that survives the impact. Never use a standard wood or HSS metal bit, as it will blunt on the first hole.
Why is my drill not going into the concrete?
Usually one of three things: hammer mode is switched off, the bit is a wood or metal bit rather than masonry, or you have hit hard aggregate or rebar. Check the mode and bit first, and if the spot feels like solid steel, move over slightly and start a new hole.
How deep should I drill for a wall plug?
Drill about 5mm deeper than the length of the plug so it seats fully and dust at the bottom does not stop it. Wrapping tape on the bit as a depth guide is the easy way to get this right every time.
How do I stop the concrete from cracking?
Keep away from edges and corners where possible, make a proper pilot dent before hammering, use the correct bit size, and let the tool work rather than forcing it. Cracks almost always come from too much pressure too close to an edge.
Can I drill into concrete without making dust?
Not entirely, but you can control it. Hold a vacuum nozzle just under the hole as you drill, or have someone hold it for you. Clearing the dust as you go also keeps the bit cutting cleanly.